If you want to know the different types of permanent hair straightening, the difference between them and how they are applied, in our web you will find all the information you need. It is known as permanent straightening or smoothing, within the field of hair care, to the technique that removes totally or partially the natural wavy given by curly hair, to transform it into straight and smooth hair. The traditional technique of permanent straightening is not complex at all and offers us the possibility of straightening the curls completely or in part.
People who, by their very nature, have curly hair have a disadvantage of having limitations when they want to use certain hairstyles. These possibilities are extended if the hair is smoothed.
To perform the straightening technique is necessary to apply a chemical, whose function is to smooth or straighten the hair. This product should have a number of features among which we would emphasize: they have to leave the hair in optimal conditions, following some basic guidelines in its execution, that are controlled by hair professionals.
We have to differentiate three types of chemical actives that are present in the hair straightening technique: sodium hydroxide, ammonium thioglycolate, and ammonium disulfide.
Permanent straightening with sodium hydroxide
This is the most used product for straightening. It is creamy and caustic and contains an alkaline pH 10 or greater. It is applied directly on the hair so that it can penetrate into the capillary cortex and break or undo the disulfide bonds or, in other words, the natural wavy structure of the hair. This cosmetic straightener of sodium hydroxide in addition to smoothing the hair, softens and strengthens the hair.
Hair that by its nature is not porous (with no absorption capacity of smoothing cream), and resistant, need a longer exposure time than those that are curly. As we can appreciate, it is the quantity of porosity and not the quality of the curls that determine: its formula, strength and time of exposure with the product. The more porous the hair, the less time it will need.
Hair that has never been chemically treated will have greater resistance to chemicals because it is generally not porous and is far from hair that has already been wavy, colored and, therefore requires a shorter exposure time.
Regarding the best time for the hair straightener to remain in contact with the hair we can say that thirty minutes can be enough, as long as the straightener has been selected with the appropriate force.
Anyway, the professional is the one who must evaluate, according to the conditions of the hair, the most appropriate time to obtain a good result. To do this, it is used to control the speed of curl straightening regular tests on the wicks in order to know when the smoothing process must be stopped, by eliminating the product from the hair when it has reached a satisfactory smoothing.
Since sodium hydroxide is a very alkaline (caustic) product, its application time should not exceed eight minutes since the chemical elements would not react correctly and could even harm the hair. Therefore, it is more than necessary to pre-test the tuft in order to correctly adjust the exposure time with sodium hydroxide. If we exceeded the time, the hair could become discolored, brittle and even dissolved, so we must pay close attention and, always through a good professional, the use of these types of sodium hydroxide straighteners.
Permanent straightening with ammonium thioglycolate
If we use a straightener composed with ammonium thioglycolate, we have to know that it is a product much milder and safer than those with sodium hydroxide, since its pH is approximate of 9,2 against the pH 10 or more that contains the one with sodium hydroxide.
Ammonium thioglycolate straightener can smooth hair as efficiently as sodium hydroxide, although it is not recommended for those types of hair that are very dense or curly.
Another point that must be given great importance in the smoothing process is the neutralizer. In straightening techniques the neutralizer is essential. This product is designed to be applied after straighteners. The function of the neutralizer, also called fixative, is to stop the action of any chemical straightener that can still remain in the hair after rinsing. This type of neutralizers performs a similar function to those used in the permanent to curl the hair. They are those who are responsible for fixing or harden broken links in a new position. Each manufacturer of this type of product has very specific instructions for the correct use of the relaxer and the neutralizer. Manufacturer’s instructions must be followed in detail for a correct application.
Steps before hair straightening
- History of the client’s hair: always have to prepare a history of every client who undergoes a permanent hair straightening. Your consent is required to disassociate the professional from any eventuality that may occur. It is totally unsuccessful and perhaps even counterproductive to perform this process without being with the proper specialized skills and being recognized as a professional to do this type of procedures.
- Hair analysis: Before performing any type of hair process, the professional must correctly evaluate the physical properties of hair that will determine the success or failure of a straightening, dyeing, discoloration or a permanent, between others. For this, the properties that must be taken into consideration, and following an order by importance are:
- Porosity: consists in the ability of the hair in terms of moisture absorption, whatever its texture.
- Elasticity: is the ability of hair to stretch and return to its normal state without breaking.
- Hardness: refers to the degree of hair thickness that is determined by the diameter of the hair shaft.
There is a simple test that helps us to verify the porosity of the hair and it consists in taking a lock of hair between the fingers, isolating it from the rest of the hair. Then, using the other hand, pass the thumb and index fingers from the root to the tip. Thus we can verify the degree of smoothness or roughness that it presents.
To know the degree of resistance that opposes and without loosening the hair, we perform the reverse movement: passing the index finger and thumb from the tip to the root.
When the hair is rough and resistant, it is a sign of excess porosity and, therefore, it will respond immediately to chemicals. The greater the roughness, the greater the degree of porosity.
Methods of permanent straightening
Among the methods of permanent hair straightening, we find a variety of methods that use different products and that can accommodate well to your lifestyle and hair type. Throughout this web you will find information on how the permanent straightening is done and its different methods:
- JAPANESE STRAIGHTENING: one of the most demanded permanent straightening with many advantages and a perfect straightening. The main advantage is its smooth and silky finish and its durability, being able to be several months, even a year in certain types of hair.
- BRAZILIAN KERATIN STRAIGHTENING: also known as straightening with keratin. You can do a nice smoothing keratin in the hairdressing salon, but it is very interesting to know that there are keratin straightening kits to do it yourself at home with success, in a way that that with a well-taken aftercare your straightening will last about 3 months. You will be astonished at their results.
- CARBOCYSTEINE STRAIGHTENING: it is an excellent method of straightening in the professional salon, without formaldehyde or toxic to the hair and leaves hair smooth and silky for 3-4 months.
- MOROCCO STRAIGHTENING: whose technique creates a beautiful smoothing.
- PHOTONIC STRAIGHTENING: based on keratin and blue light.
You can find detailed information about these different types of permanent hair straightening in our blog 🙂
Products for permanent hair straightening
Japanese straightening is not recommended to be performed at home because of its complexity and it needs to be performed by professional hairdressers. However, you can try a keratin straightening at home using quality products, as you can find in our store specialist in hair products
You are writing us a lot asking for specific products to get permanent hair straightening. We are stylist who have created the blog, but due to the number of questions on where to buy hair straightening products, we have been encouraged to set up an online store with healthy products labeled as pharmacy products and for professional stylists. All our straightening products are formaldehyde-free and you can find all kind of hair products dedicated exclusively to hair care, hair treatment and style.
If you dare to do some of these kind of permanent hair straightening, this is the place to share your experience with us 🙂